Day 43 and 44: Arriving and Exploring Laos. Luang Prabang.

Day 43

We want to say goodbye to the Catmosphere cats before we go to the airport so we have a brownie breakfast whilst having all the kitties to ourselves. I know I've already raved about the apartment owners but they really are amazing and to top off their wonderfulness, they are giving us a lift to the air port. So at 11.30 with our bags packed, we say cheerio to Chaing Mai.

The airport is small but seems to have everything we need including a rude exchange lady and a cat in the toilet. The check in is downstairs and there's so many signs for food pointing towards the gates that we don't worry about getting anything downstairs, however once we've rushed through there is hardly anything up here and I have no idea where the signs were pointing. So we have a rubbish tuna sandwich and discuss the pros of keeping Bees until our check in, a smelly bus to the plane and boarding. Which is very quick as the plane is tiny, it has propellers and holds about 40 people. So cute.

It's our first flight with Lao Airlines and I'm really impressed. The seats and comfy and spacious and although our flights only an hour we get a nice snack and a free drink. The only down side is because the plane is so small we had a lot turbulence so even though they were very hospitable I was glad to get off. Luang Prabang airport is even smaller than Chiang Mai but we get our visas pretty quick and collect our bags, it's also really hot here and I'm feeling our first taste of the 40c heat, urg. We are also millionaires once we've got to the cash point which I didn't think I'd ever say, the conversation rate is 1,000,000 kip is £83ish.

Laos from the part I've seen today is beautiful, and I'm so glad we came. We haven't got a map yet so we haven't done too much exploring but I can't wait too, just maybe not in the mid day sun

Day 44

As seems to be common with hostel rooms, it's pitch black so we sleep through until 10am but dress quick once we are awake as we saw a pancake stall yesterday and who can say no to them. We set off from our breakfast in the direction we think the main town is and I'm surprised by how quiet it is. It's nearly 11 and there are only a handful of cars and people on the streets. It's blissfully peaceful and I fall in love a little more. 

We walk about 2 miles following the Nam Khan river till we find where it connects to the Mekong. There's a bamboo bridge that crosses the river at this point and the guy who owns it, builds it at the beginning of the dry season each year and takes it down again before the end. We go across and I try not to think it's just bamboo holding me up when I start to feel a little peaky. I've all of a sudden got really, really hot, like fainting hot, my neck hurts in every step and I feel dizzy. We sit down, watching the river and the brightly coloured monks but I don't feel any better and all I want is to lie down.

We wander for a bit, come back across the bridge and have a drink but I feel even worse. So we split up, Ben goes off to explore the town and I go back to rest up. I think it's the malaria tablets I've just started taking which have, ironically, given me some of the symptoms of malaria. Ben comes back after a few hours and fills me on his adventures with steps and monks and I show him a restaurant I've found nearby called Utopia. 

It's so chilled and over looks the Nam Khan river. The owner is a Canadian who's really keen on everything being right and the food is amazing. We stay here for a few hours, just watching the sun set and chatting away until my head starts to hurt and I'm tucked in and asleep by 8pm.

Day 41 and 42: Police and UPS. Chiang Mai

Day 41

Today is not a good day. To start with I dye my hair and most of the bathroom pink (it looks like a flamingo massacre) and know I'm going to have to spend tonight scrubbing. Next Ben fancies a Thai massage, so after doing a bit of research we head off to Green Bamboo for a 5 star massage according to the reviews. 

We begin with a warm feet wash, so far so good and then it all goes a bit down hill. We are taken upstairs, we change into some cotton pyjamas and lay down, this is when the torture starts. Ben said I hurt so bad as I needed it so much, I call Bullshit and just think they are a little sadistic. She's starts with my feet and works her way up to my head and it's agony, she might get a few nice clicks but I'm silently (though not always) screaming the whole way through, each area hurt more than the last and I actually felt myself fight her off when she when down my back. It was 100 times worse than the leg massage in Hong Kong and I could have sobbed when we finished. Ben, of course, loved it. 

To cheer me up and to soothe my now throbbing muscles, we head to the cinema to watch Unbroken (ironic). However, the bad day gets worse as we are pulled over for not wearing helmets, a shock to us as we weren't offered any when we hired the bike and hardly anyone seems to wear one. But the police officer doesn't care and takes Ben's licence until we pay a 500 baht (£10) fine. We head to the rental place and get some helmets, they just laughed when we told them, and head off to find this police station from the poor directions that the cop gave us and Google. The directions seemed easy enough but after and hour and half driving, we are completely lost and about 2 miles from the city. After getting 3 lots of garbled directions, we arrive, hot and sore from the uncomfortable bike and the fines gone down to 300 (£6). We head down the road when we get the sinking realisation that the police station is actually only 5 minutes from the massage place earlier and should have only taken 10 minutes to get to. Not cool.

We finally get to the cinema, 3 hours later than we wanted, and console ourselves with drinks, sofas and Hollywood. Unbroken is another good film that I would recommend you seeing, and amazing it's a true story. Afterwards we grab some bleach and a box that could fit a toddler in for my purchase and in true Thai style we drive home with it in the back of the bike, blocking everything. Just another day in Thailand :)

Day 42

It's our last day in Chiang Mai today and it's going to be a relaxing one after yesterday's mess. The first thing to do is go shopping for all the vintage dresses I'm going to fill my box with. Ben, weirdly, doesn't want to come with me so I set off out on my own. Thing is though, although I've got my full bike licence, I've only actually ridden a twist and go once before and that was a long time ago. These scooters balance very different to what I'm used to and it took a few goes to get my wobble right and I'm still not sure I can do u-turns.

There are two shops right next door to each other and I could have bought half of their stock. I wander round, piling my arms with dresses whilst the owner stares at me a bit confused. I settle on 21 items from the two places and stuff the bags onto the bike and wobble again back to the apartment. Lucky they all fit in the box and the next task is working out how to get it on the back of the box. A whole reel of rope later and I'm walking, Ben sets off looking like a true Thai and heads off to UPS, where he gets a good deal on the box and it will arrive home end of April.

All smug with ourselves, we go off for some lunch at a delicious restaurant near Ristr8to and then head to a cafe called Marble Arch to catch up with our blogs and emails and things before we head to Laos tomorrow. It's a London themed cafe but soulless really with bad covers playing over the speakers. We put up with karaoke Elton John for as long as we can handle (about 2 hours) before we head off out to find some dinner. This time we head to a Canadian restaurant we spotted a few days before, and I had poutine for the first time, it's just really gravy, cheese and chips but the sauce is so darn tasty. I'm definitely making this when we get back.

Without us realising, it's gotten dark outside so we start to head back as we've got to clean the apartment and pack before they come and pick us up in the morning. After a slight detour to an ice cream place first, of course.

Day 39 and 40: Harbours and Waterfalls. Chiang Mai.

Day 39

The days here all merge into each other here as we just relax into life in Chiang Mai. Today is going to be a day of doing and searching for coffee shops to set up camp in. We want to book Laos and sort out the money and what a better way to do than with watermelon shake. After shakes we have cakes and after cakes we have salad. I'm not feeling too perky today so we go back to the apartment so I can rest up ready for exploring tonight. 

There is a place near us called The Harbour and it's just the strangest thing. It's a shopping village all set up like a small american harbour town, complete with streets and odd nautical statues. It is also over priced so we only stay for one drink before scootering off to the Think Park, it's full of vintage shops, cool cafes and music. We stay for a bit and eat some delicious food before I feel crap again and we head back.

Day 40 

Today we get our proper exploring on and head up the mountain behind our apartment to find some waterfalls. The roads are uneven and very winding as we head away from the city but the views are amazing. Part way up is a temple that's too full of tourists for us so we scoot past, going up even higher. The further up we go the bumpier the roads become and Ben spends more times avoiding pot holes than anything else. At a fork we turn left and come to a little village that's all geared up for the tourists who are still on the temple part of their tour. It's nice and quiet here as we potter through and pay 20p to go and look at a waterfall and a pretty flower garden. The flowers are beautiful but the waterfall? Well that's a bit measily but we get some shots of Julian and then head back to find the peak.

At the fork, we take the other road, which is even tighter and bumpier than before. I swear it's more pot holes than road and my spine gets nicely compacted as we ride up. But the views half way up are worth all the yelping and we snap some pictures and take it all in.

We still aren't at the top though and Ben never likes to leave any job half done so head up further, bouncing as we go till we reach a weird check point where they deny all knowledge of the peak and send us back on our way. As we head back down we spot a sign for another waterfall and decide to check it out. We park up and it looks like we might be disappointed again but it's cool and calming so we take some snaps. It isn't until Ben decided to climb a little higher that we find the real beauty spot and although it's the dry season, the fall up here is pretty impressive. Ben waste no time and strips down, paddling up to the water and when it hits him, his face, which you can see below is priceless. I thought I was going to fall over I was laughing so hard. 

Back down in the city and after lunch and a swim at the apartment, we head out to the cinema to watch Birdman. The picture house is on the top floor of the Maya shopping centre which means there are loads of places to eat and we are naturally drawn to FroYo. Upstairs, with tickets bought, we watch the Thai guys beat each other on the dance mat games (I have never seen anyone move so fast) before heading to our screen and sofa. Yes you heard right, we paid for the most expensive seats (£3) and got a reclining, comfy sofa, aw it was bliss. Before any film starts in Thailand everyone must get up for the national anthem, the videos below, and it's quite moving to watch people cry with pride.

The film is amazing, I would really recommend it especially with a litre of coke beside you and a squishy cushion underneath you. We grab doughnuts on the way out and stuff our faces, chuffed with another good day.

Day 37 and 38: Coffee and Markets

Day 37

Today we are moving into an apartment for a week and I can't wait. The owners are as lovely and helpful as we thought they would be. They pick us up from the hostel, early, give us a tour of the area and then drop us off at the place at 9am, a whole 5 hours early. The place is also amazing, it's light and airy, with a kitchen, two balconies and desk and a dining room table which is all bliss compared to what we are used to. And to top of the awesomeness of the place? It has a pool and a gym!! All for £19 a night, heaven. 

Once unpacked and our finger prints taken for the door scanner downstairs (very hi tec) we head on out. Our place is about a mile from Nimmanahaemide Road which is one of the trendy strips in the city. It also has some of the best coffee in Thailand so our first stop is a cafe called Ristr8o which serves the best coffee Ben has ever had and a cup of ice cream for me, I think we'll be back here. If Ben's vice is coffee, mine is salad so we stop to have lunch at a place called Salad Concept, where you build your own yummy salad from the base up, it's so darn good. We start to wander back now as we want to get some food for the apartment, but get distracted by a factory style gift shop. Everything here is so cheap, I could honestly buy it all so we grab some gifts and some bits for us (our bags are getting fuller and fuller) Also on this walk back over heard the whitest, poshest old man stating "I prefer the North, it has a better class of Farang*" Me and Ben have never laughed so hard.

*A Farang is the Thai word for tourist

We finally get into Maya, and buy enough food for a few meals in a scrummy Wholefood like place. Ladened with bags we start to walk back when we hit my holy grail. Second hand shop! They sell by the weight, and I grab a cool leopard print jacket and a vintage dress for a ridiculously cheap price and could buy the shop if I had space...bingo, I'll send a box home! Back in the apartment, we have a gym session and a swim before I start cooking (I've missed this) and Ben gets us a moped for the week.

Fed and ready we go off out, stopping first at the coolest cafe. Catmosphere is a cafe full of cats and my Mr Doolittle is in there in a shot. We play with the kitties for an hour, we spot a sign saying They won't replace any food or drink nibbled by the cats, how is that a negative?! After this we hop on the bike and get lost for half an hour before we find the Saturday Night Market. It's completely rammed, the space is so full you can't see the sides but I do find some cheap vans and some tasty spring rolls. It gets a bit too much after a while being barged and squashes so we head back and sink into the sifted bed I have slept on in ages.

Day 38

Having our own place is brilliant, after a late lie in, Ben makes breakfast and we just mooch. We also get a wash done and literally do our whole bags so everything is fresh and clean. Our day doesn't get much more racing than that and we swim, gym and lunch. Tonight there is another street market and this one is my favourite of all we've been to. We start off with food on sticks and sushi (another first for me) which we ate whilst wander around. 

The market is split over two areas, with the second bigger part bring on a closed road. It's not bigger than yesterday but better laid out so you don't feel so much like a sardine,  and it's full of people, musicians and stalls. The items tonight are more handicraft than counterfeit and I really could have filled my bag ten times over with pictures, shades and clothes. We shop and buy a few bits but mainly just take it all in, I love being part of it all.

Once broke, we load up the moped and head back in the cool air, I think I'm falling in love. 

Day 35 and 36: Trains, Food and Trains

Day 35

We've seen all we want to of this strange little town and head back to Ayutthaya where tomorrow we will taking the train up to Chaing Mai, the last stop in Thailand for us. The hotel guy is his usual helpful self and gets us a taxi, and we sip on our new favourite drink (Sachet Hot Chocolate with added coffee for Ben) till it turns up and takes us back the train station. 

We arrive with 45 minutes spare and do the only thing you can when you got that might time to waste in a train station and weighed ourselves with the parcel scales. We picked 3rd class tickets going back and the food we bought off the sellers in there was fantastic, I have 2 whole corn on the cob for 40p and I swear it was hotter than the sun. Mixed in with the fact we had no air con, my internal temperature starts to rise and I suddenly I begin to understand what it's like for Ben, the eternal sweater. My whole body is covered and I can't cool myself down even with the windows open, it reaches breaking point for me when sweat drips from behind my knees but Ben can't stop laughing. It's honestly the worse train journey I've ever had and I'm so glad to be getting off, even if I do leave a little puddle behind me.

We are only staying in Ayutthaya for one night and we haven't yet booked anywhere, I know, me not having to micro manage, I hope you're as impressed as I am. We spot a hostel just after we get off the little boat and it's cheap and clean and more importantly for my still over heating body, it has a shower!

Clean and cool, we go out to grab some supplies for the 10 hour train journey tomorrow and fill the basket with biscuits, crisps, crackers, Nutella and peanut butter. We also grab a massive bag of the Hot Chocolate we've fallen in love with, delish. We grab a sundae in the diner next to the mall and make our way back to the hostel. It looks like there is going to be a big Chinese New Year celebration tonight which I would love to see, so we wait till 8, get ready and then go search for...nothing, we've got the day wrong, just us. 

Day 36

We are out and in the train station before 9am even though we know about 9.40am train is going to be late. Breakfast is a very spicey fish stew that only burns your lips and the trains only 15 minutes late so the mornings going good. This train is brilliant, there's loads of leg room, air con, a big window and even better free snacks! The lunch was very meaty but I don't mind as I've got snacks and I munch my way through them. The train chugs through sleepy farmland to wooded hills with fires burning besides the tracks, it's a long ride but the scenery is beautiful and we fill our time with films and our usual mad talks. About 3 hours from Chiang Mai the train stops long enough to grab some food and Ben comes back with delicious sticky mango rice, perfect boyfriend. 

Chiang Mai is cool when we arrive and it's refreshing. We bundle into a tuk tuk and head off to find our hostel, tomorrow we are going to start our week in an AirBnB apartment and the lovely couple who own it are not just letting us in 4 hours early, they are also picking us up. I think this is going to be a good week.

Day 33 and 34: Safaris and The Hulk.

Day 33

All of my resolve to get a good night sleep evaporates at 12.30am when I wake up from a dream where I was being suffocated by cats and just can't go back to sleep again, I honestly try everything. Reading, getting out of bed, exercise, counting sheep but nothing works. I'm starting to get desperate at 3.30 when I finally nod off, and luckily get no more visits from my feline friends.

Unsurprisingly I feel pretty dead when the alarm goes off in the morning and I really can't drag myself awake for a good half hour. We need cash for today's safari but to Ben's horror the only way to get some is on the back of the owners bright red Liverpool FC moped and as a West Ham fan, I don't think he will ever be able to live down the shame. At 8.30 on the dot a truck turns up with 2 French couples, and an American/Canadian pair and we hop in behind them. The route to the park is full of what seems like themed restaurants. "Did you just see the hulk?" And we vow to explore tomorrow.

We aren't in the park for 5 minutes and our guide has already pulled over to show us a bright orange tree snake. Next a little further down the road, he gets excited again and says he's spotted a giant squirrel, I have no idea why but this made me giggle a lot and it took me about half hour to not crease up when I thought about it. Carrying on our drive to the visitors centre where we will start our trip, there's a commotion on the road with several tourists looking up at the trees, the guide sets up a telescope and shows us what everyone is so excited about.

It's gibbons!! These little fluffy creatures have the coolest hands and no tails and I fall in love, the guide plays us a video of the gibbon call so we can listen when we are in the forest later, I've attached a video so you can all hear (off YouTube not ours)

After gibbon spotting, we go the centre, have a quick drink and then prepare ourselves for a few hours trekking and crossing all our fingers and toes that we will see a panglian on our travels. We start in an area of forest just up from where we saw the first gibbons and it isn't long before we hear and spot another family swinging through the trees above us, just then we hear a rustle on the floor about 20 metres in front of us and our guide whispers that it's a large family of macaques which circle us for the next 30 minutes, it was amazing. Sadly though, that was the highlight of the trek, after that first 30 minutes we walk for ages, waiting and listening but not really seeing much else, it was also getting really hot and we weren't really enjoying it. Lunch was provided at a view point just outside of the forest we were in and it was nice to rest up. Me and Ben sat at the top listening to the call of the gibbons and all the birds and I was blown away by it all, so what the walk might have been a bit tedious, this second now was worth all the sweaty steps.

After food we drove to a waterfall which we unfortunately couldn't swim in but we stopped and marvelled for a while. The last part of the day was elephant searching but we were as fruitless as this as we were with our pangolin hunt. Also the American couple were starting to get really irritating, constantly name dropping countries and belittling everyone's stories so I wasn't sad that we started to make our way back at this point. We caught another family of macaques on the road home, which was a lovely end to the day.

I keep drifting off as we bump away back to our hotel and once back and fed, I zonk out. And have a cat free night, I want to add.

Day 34

We don't really have anything planned for today other than exploring the weird themed places surrounding our hotel. First though we decide to be really geeky and make a spreadsheet for our travels, sounds lame but with so much spread out before us, sometimes it hard to picture it all and this really puts in into perspective for us.

Though it does get a little boring after a while so we grab a bike from the hotel and go off to find some themed food. My little nephews love the comic book characters and u was determined to get a picture of the hulk for them both so that was our first stop. I managed to get batman and superman too, but who's bragging. Next on our list of the weird and wonderful was a Wild West town that was just outside the park and it was every bit as strange as looked from the outside. It's theme was a old country and western complete with the tunes and I belted them out as we ordered. The food was also themed, or so we thought, so Ben orders Snake Head. You can kinda imagine our surprise when an actually cooked snake comes out and Ben jumped out of his skin, I forgot to say he's a tiny bit afraid of them. The fear doesn't leave him as he eats, though to his credit his does manage half of it.

After the snake showdown we head off to find some more odd restaurants when the sky turns an ominous shade of purple and we duck into what we believe is a mall. Well in true Khao Yai style it isn't just a simple mall but a tiny reconstructed Italian town, complete with themed tunes pumping out of its walls and empty. This place is weird. We walk around, with mouths open till we find a cheesy simulator ride for only 50p each and jump in for a "Jungle" adventure. After this we eat ice cream, wander some more, get a coffee, stare agog at it all and then leave, not quite sure it ever existed. 

The fuel light flickers on and we've not seen anything singing petrol pumps so we head back to do some more adventure planning and try and make sense of it all.

Day 31 and 32: Temples, Temples and Trains

Day 31

Today we have been away for one full month but instead of celebrating I wake up after a restless night sleep, full of dreams of home, low and teary. It's the first time I've felt really down on this trip and it's made even worse by how good I felt about travelling yesterday. But Ben as always is excellent, mopping up the tears and giving me a hug. I don't want to mope though as today we are getting a bike to go off exploring and I love doing that so I pull myself together and we set off.

Ayutthaya was the ancient capital of Thailand and is full of temples and ruins to explore so we pick a handful off the poor map the hostel has given us and set off. These roads are a little busier than what we've been used to on the little islands but Ben drives like a true Thai, weaving in and out of traffic and with me directing from the back, we make good time getting to our first temple, Wat Yai Chaimongkohn

Before we set foot inside, Ben caves and buys a pair of elephants "to be respectful in the temples" but I know the real reason is because they are like wearing your Pjs out and he's wanted a pair since we've arrived. The temple is just outside the city and has a huge pagoda (dome) which you can see way before you reach it. It's a beautiful place and is still used as a place of worship so it's bright and noisy. 

Next on our list is a much older temple which is on the river bank just outside the city again. Wat Chaiwatthanaram was partly destroyed and left as a shine to that so as you walk around most of the Buddhas are headless or missing limbs which is a strange things to see. We are hitting mid day now mad starting to toast so grab ice creams and take some photos before we hit the next temple, our last before lunch.

We have to travel even further out of the city to find this and might possible have had to do a few u-turns to get to it. You can't miss it when you get near though as its bright white and sits proud on the landscape. Wat Phukhao Thong is meant to give good views of the city so in the mid day heat we climb its 90 odd steps to find...a rubbish view. You can't really see anything as its all so flat and its so hot, we make a quick retreat to find some lunch.

After yesterday's mishap and my craving for pasta, Ben succomes to my western food hunger and we eat in a Thai version of Pizza Hut. It's not the best food I've ever eaten but man it's good, and I get my carb fix which should last me a little while, we buy a few bits in the attached shops and go back to drop them off. We still have another 3 temples on our list but the food baby's and the heat have turn us off the idea. There is one we still want to look at, and it's only a short drive from the hostel. Wat Maha That is right near the grand palace and has nature growing all the way through it. Here though was where my annoyance at tourists bubbles over and I grumble at Ben all the way round. The amount of people that are here inappropriately dresses (shoulders and legs out) or sitting on the Buddha is unreal. It really takes nothing to throw on a sarong (as I do) or a shawl but means everything to the Thai people, and tourist who come here are so disrespectful to ignore that. Grumble grumble.

We drive around after this, spotting elephants working along the paths and more ruins of temples.    An exercise park catches Ben's attention as we are having a quick drive round and we stay here until he overheats and we go back to the hotel room so he can hide on the air con. I FaceTime home which actually helps to dull the ache for it and then we have pot noodles for tea, enviable life I know.

Day 32

Another polar opposite mood today and I'm full of beans. We are leaving to go off in search of a safari and I'm packed the quickest I've ever been. Our adventure is taking us to Pak Chong today and we are going on my favourite type of transport again, the train! I'm also booking out advance tickets to Chiang Mai for a couple of days time and it's so easy, all of the ticket system is computerised with everyone getting allocated seats and it's takes 5 minutes to get all 4 tickets I need sorted. The same speed can't be said for the train though and it's a full 45 minutes late when it rolls into the station but at least it's air conned. 

I know I've touched on how much technology is loved out here but I don't think I've given enough time to the passion most under 25 have here for the selfie. Honestly every where we go people are continuously snapping and today's no different with the girl next to me taking at least 6 a minute for the full 2 hour trip. We arrive in Pak Chong but miss the taxis out due to our need for food, on the up side we did find a cool vintage cafe so it's not all bad. After a few hand signals and a 15 minute wait a taxi turns up for us and whisks us on our way. Khao Yai is where the big national park and safaris are and our hotel is just outside it but that's all that is around it. Once feed and watered we spend the afternoon trying to work out our plans and fail miserably, we walk to dinner thinking tomorrow will be spent in the room again when the owner comes up trumps and gets us on a full day safari starting at 8.30am. I can't wait and am nicely tucked up early, all ready for the adventure of tomorrow. 

Day 29 and 30: Back to Face the Music

Day 29 

Our lift to the airport is arriving at 10am so we sneak in a quick breakfast with the holy grail marmalade again and do a rapid pack up. I'm still very burnt and spend every 20 minutes it seems reapplying the Aloe Vera so I don't turn from a lobster to a salamander. It's only about 30 minutes to the air port, and it goes in a flash as I look out of the window to see pick up trucks full of people whizz past and cockerel sales on the side of the road. 

We aren't in the tiny airport for long before the usual mad rush to get on the plane, an hour flight and then we land in the stuffiness of Bangkok once more. It actually feels a little more pleasant this time so hopefully we are getting used to the heat. Taxi drivers in the city are very different to the ones in London, no knowledge is needed to become one here and no Sat Navs are used either, they just seem to hit and hope or call up the hostel to get directions from them. This driver is no different and we only find the guesthouse as a Ben spots a sign and gets him to stop. 

It's brilliant though, more like a home stay than anything else and the owner Joy is so lovely and really helpful. We drop our bags and get shower as I get ready to face the perils of Bangkok once more. The Sky Train, which is an elevated tube like train, is only a short walk from the guest house and we hop on. With food on our brains, we stop off at a the Siam mall to grab a quick bite to eat. Our eyes are drawn to a resturant with vintage radios and TV in the windows and it's even cooler inside. It's set up like an Asian street with each food area in different "stalls". You can order from any by using a swipe card and we go for a mix of American style burgers and fries, dim sum and sugary desserts. The drinks are also amazing, with a list of about 30 odd hot and cold drinks and I go for a hot strawberry milk which is just like runny angel delight and it's amazing. But it's warming, milky effects are almost instant and my eyes are drooping as we go to pay, I even have to sit down for 5 minutes to work out where I am, I need some of this nectar at home.

I strangely perk up when I realise there is a market just starting in front of the mall, and I weave us down so we can get caught up in it all. It's brilliant, full of fashion imitations, quirky jewelery, knock off shoes and music blaring out across the street. I pick up a pair of high waisted black pedal pushers and Ben a tee as we wander up and down the mile long stretch. After an hour or so we jump on the Sky Train again and make our way across to Nana Plaza, the adult entertainment area we were looking for on our first trip. I'm curious to how I'll feel this time, after my new found prudish understanding.

It's tucked a little away from the Main Street but you know you're coming close to it by the sound and the increase of over 50's men. The whole area is in a court yard off the strip with a horse shoe shaped building around it, with three floors each getting more perverted as you climb. We stroll around, taking it all in before grabbing a drink in the bar in the middle and I feel weirdly relaxed. Gone are the uptight, creeped out feelings of last time, now all I can think is how silly these men look or how well done some of the ladies are. A bit of a turn around but I like to think this won't be the only value I test of mine on this trip.

We don't stay for long as we spent all our cash tonight on food and market stall purchases. The hot milk effect has also started to creep back in so we jump on the still packed train home and I fall into our bed.

Day 30

We are leaving Bangkok again but without the same desperation of last time. Our adventures are taking us to Ayutthaya as we begin our trip up north and we are going to start by sampling the Thai railways. Joy, the owner, comes through again by saving us a hot and sticky walk and train ride which would have cost twice as much as a taxi. His driver seems to know where he's going (you'd hope as we are going to main train station) but insist on keeping up the weird taxi driver tradition by plucking his non existent beard with tweezer everytime we get to a set of traffic lights. 

Avoiding that sight is a prioity but I have no problem in doing that today as the city outside my window has caught my attention fully for the first time since India. The streets we drive though are buzzing with markets and shops I want to explore, the pavements are bustling with people and I suddenly realise I want to be bustling along with them. I finally get what all this traveling malarkey is about. For the past 30 days I've felt like a bit of a fraud, wanting to be carrying on with my life whilst being here and not really getting what all the fuss is about but today it has clicked. It's about discovering something new and seeing something different and that passion for "what's down there? Or "I wonder what that tastes like?" has been ignited. That might sound a little intence and a little weird to some of you but it's such a nice feeling to have it all slot into place. 

We arrive at the train station, where we buy our tickets for a train that we told is meant to leave in 2 minutes, ahh! So we run to the platform only to remember when we see no train, we're in Thailand, nothing's on time here. A few waffles and half an hour later the train arrives and we get onto the 3rd class carriage. It's not much different to the ones at home, except you can open the windows a little wider and it's not as cramped. It also only cost us 40p each, okay so many a little different.

The train pulls into Ayutthaya, 2 hot and sticky hours later, I've loved the journey as I've got a bit of a thing for trains. Ben however, did not enjoy the ride. I think he would describe it as being in a microwave so was pretty glad to get off. Thai train stations don't have raised platforms and no bridges across the tracks, you just walk them. So once our train was out of the station, we wander across, going completely against all my train safety rules. Shudder.

To get to the main city from the train station you have to cross the river, they have handily set up a river taxi service with takes 45 seconds and costs you 10p each. The directions the hotel have given us are rubbish and we mistakenly ask a driver for the way to go. "I take you, it 2km" He quotes us £1.20 and then takes us in a circle about 3/4 the way around to make the cost justify to him, but at least we didn't have to walk in this heat with our bags, urg. 

Our room isn't ready until 2pm so we leave our bags and wander off to get some food. Second translation mishap, we go to a nearby street seller and both ask for vegetarian rice and noodles with a coca cola and the both come out with chicken and no drinks. Ben's happy though and eats it all up and I just nibble around the rice. Once we are in and unpacked we fancy doing some exploring but get put off a little by a sign warning of rabid dogs which among other things, suggested taking an umbrella out with us to beat them off, urm no thanks.

We wander in a circle from our hotel, with one eye out of the dogs, towards the main strip in the town. It has a buzzing market which we immerse our selves in, checking out the strange foods on offer and the valentines gifts they are trying to flog. I'm obviously a bit peckish at this point so we turn off to find something to eat but all we are faced with as we get closer to the stalls is rats, and lots of them. Now you can say we shouldn't have been surprised as we're in Asia and we are lucky to have not seen any already but, Ah they really creep me out and with the warning of the dogs still in our minds we go quickly back to the hotel, popping into an ice cream parlour nearby for fries and sundaes to take our minds off it all.

Day 27 and 28: Sun Burn and Climbers

Day 27

I said the best night sleep of the trip a little loosely as I didn't sleep soundly the whole night, I had a dream about being an artist and had woken up and written weird notes about Horse and Hound magazine halfway through the night.

The beaches near us are meant to be spectacular so we dress quickly and meander down to the pier to grab a boat within 2 minutes of arriving. The journey is short, only bout 5 minutes and we arrive on Railey pier. Unsurprisingly out first stop is breakfast and we fall on our feet with this one, enjoying an incredible buffet in a 5 star hotel for only £6. It's full of pastries, fruit, salad and curry a amount many other things and we literally fill our faces, going up for 3 or 4 refills, oh it's heaven.

After the mass food devourment, we wander over to over the west beach and it was a bit of an anti-climax, it's pretty to look at but really stoned and it very quickly fills with people, we sun bathe for a little bit but Ben's got an itch for an adventure so we head off in search of Phra Nga beach, the one that we confused Phang Nag about a week ago. We walk back to the east side, down the beach till be reach the coolest coves, perfect for a little bat photo shoot. We carry on walking and come across a whole family of macaques including some tiny babies that are making their way along the fence, parallel to path we are walk on. 

Half way down to the beach is a climbing lagoon and Ben gets all excited and leaves me to sun bathe whilst he climbs up it. The heat is unreal at this point so I sit in the shade, reading on the soft sand, occasionally cooling down in the sea. Ben reappears a few hours later full of stories but no injuries, Woohoo, so we cool down with a swim. Where he gets stung by a jelly fish. I swear they follow him. With Ben's arm stinging and the slow reddening of my skin we decide to leave the beach for food and an ATM to get back to the hotel. My skin is getting hotter and hotter as we walk and as I hear the gasps from the fisherman as we pass, I know I must be very burnt. A short boat ride back and in the hotel, the full extent becomes clear. I am a lobster and a part cooked one at that. My whole body is throbbing red apart from two small patches on my knees and face and this was all from the small sun bathing session on the west beach. 

I don't fancy eating and Ben's actually full from all the feast so we stay in tonight and I introduce Ben to the notebook and he to me, the magic of aloe Vera.

Day 28 

I had an unsurprising fitful night sleep last night due to my new lobster tendencies and it night has done nothing to calm it. We were meant to be hiring a canoe today to go off exploring but I'm just too burnt so Ben goes off alone after another epic breakfast and I sit on the beach, covered in loose cotton, in the shade with all the toddlers. 

After about an hour and a half, I can see him paddling back into view, full of excitement. He's found Tonsai, it looks beautiful, there's a quick mountain path, can we go? I laugh and pack my bits up straight away, I love it when he's like this. We wander to the other end of west beach and then through a very rocky and quite hilly path to get to Tonsai another beautiful beach and renowned climbing area. The area we've just left is full of day trippers and tourists and there's a real feel of "Don't enter my space" whereas here it's so relaxed.

The first thing you meet is a cliff face full of climbers of all different abilities from the nervous beginners to the monkey like men, free climbing the wall. The first bar we spot is full of hippies and relaxed families and we sit here for a while drinking cocktails, gawping at the climbers and playing pool. Lunch is next on our agenda so we find a little restaurant and fill up on snacks and the ever refreshing watermelon shake. Weirdly, Ben is jealous of the crisp of my skin and gets a beach craving so we find s nice bit of shade for me and a stretch of sun filled sand for Ben. I do venture out of my little shade cave for a few cooling swims and it's bliss as all of life seems to be at the moment.

Before we boat back, we both grab some new shades for a fraction of the UK price and strut around a bit showing them off. The boat back is much rougher than the others we've done and full of a rude French group so I'm glad it's only a 5 minute commute. Tonight's dinner is a 7/11 special full of weird snacks and collagen drinks for young looking stomachs? And we pack, sad that tomorrow we'd be leaving the beaches for the clamminess of Bangkok. 

Day 25 and 26: Sun Rises and Sneaking Lifts

Day 25

On our penultimate day we finally did it, we manage to wake up for the sun rise and my it was worth the hour sleep lost. The sky was filled with oranges and pinks as the sun slowly rose from behind the mountains and I was a little in awe wrapped up in my sleeper on the deck.

Our early start also means we are off out to breakfast a little earlier and I had my eye on a little bakery we spotted the day before. The food here is delicious and I finally get my hands on some marmalade, tart and fresh compared to the over sweet sugary jam I've been having so far, man I have missed it. As today is our last full day, we need to get a boat sorted to take us off the island and that needs cash so we wander off in the morning heat to the ATM which is a short walk from the hut. It, of course, is switch off and the next one is about a mile down the road. Even though we got through the heat of Bangkok I'm not looking forward to even a short distance in today's temperature and nor is Ben so we hire a bike from right next to the ATM.

This bike comes with only the vapours of petrol so we have to fill up for the first time on our trip, the petrol pumps here are automated machines, which to our surprise, sings at you. Loudly, for about 15 seconds once you've filled your tank, it's brilliant and I'm thinking of starting a petition to get them installed in the UK. Cash got and still with several hours left on the bike we go back to Luna beach and swim and sun bathe soaking up the sun that we both have come to worship. 

Hunger and heat gets to us so we go back to the cabin and spend the afternoon, and I mean the whole afternoon, trying to find somewhere to stay. I would say that's a real downside to travelling constantly trying to find somewhere to stay that's affordable, near where you want to be and not a dive, all whilst trying to decipher the weird reviews on trip advisor. Honestly where do these people come from? "I love the hotel but was a bit disappointed at the wild life near by, can't they do something about the crickets?" "The breakfast was a let down, no bran flakes. Lucky I'd put some in my bag"

We settle on Ao Nam Mao and need to get out after the hours wasted on trying to find somewhere so we drive around the island for one last time and settle on a beach until we crave pizza and another pool battle.

Day 26

We have to leave our little paradise today and manage to catch another sun rise which was so great way to finish the trip here. We took advantage of the laundry service the restaurant offers yesterday and pick it up this morning savouring the smell of fresh washing, oh it's the little things you miss. We've packed and breakfasted by 11 and we leave our bags until our taxi comes and picks us up at 2pm.

The plan is to go lounge on the beach but Ben's stomach says different and we have the tastiest German sandwiches that I have ever eaten with gherkin and mustard. So much of our enjoyment is centred around food but that isn't really any different to home. The beach in front of us has hammocks and after filling our faces with a pudding of brownie, we share one, enjoying the sound of the waves and the cooling sea breeze. We lounge till the pool tables calls, the battle involves 4 games today and I win 2!! The total now stands at a more acceptable 8-4.

It quickly becomes taxi time so we take the hot, steep walk up to the cabins for a final time and load ourselves and our bags into the back of a jeep heading towards Mahot pier. In true Thai style the boat arrives late, it's not just Ben who feels sick this time with the rough ride and the boats eye hurting decor so I'm very glad when we finally get off about half an hour later. We arrive in Ao Nammao the same time as another much bigger boat and we frustratingly have to wait behind it, though I didn't realise how fortunate this was going to be. Our little boat off loads onto the beach, so with damp feet we make our way past the pier to what we believe is the area for the local buses, as we don't want to get caught up with the higher tourist prices. We get directed onto the back of a white truck, apparently heading towards our hotel with a few other tourists and we set off, it seemed a little luxurious for a local bus but it was going our way so I didn't mind. First stop, an a girl gets off, grabs her bag and goes into her hotel without paying. I think any minute the driver will go after her but he just gets back into the truck and then it dawns on me, we've managed to hop on the free transfer bus that the other much bugger posher boat must offer. 

Our stops next and I quickly grab Ben and drag him away from the bus as he tries to get out his wallet, giving me the weirdest look.

"Keep walking" I hiss "But we haven't..." "Sshhhh"

Once we've scurried inside I will Ben in and we realised we've saved our saves about £5 and a hot walk from the nearest bus stop, success.

And all my worries about our last minute hotel booking are unfounded as the room is perfect, a fridge, air con, a warm shower and only a 2 minute walk from the pier to one of the best beaches in the world.

Dinner is the finally topping on our brilliant cake day as the food is delicious and well priced so we finish the day full and happy, cooled by air con and I fall into one of the best night sleeps I've had all trip.